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DULCE DE LECHE BY ALEX MACKAY
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Rolls off the tongue doesn’t it. The word “dulce” meaning both sweet and soft is perfect for this sumptuous caramel sauce. It is soft, sweet, sticky and oh so moreish milk that has been cooked to create a luscious creamy caramel sauce. In Argentina the average consumption of dulce de leche is about one kilo per week, they even spoon feed it to babies because of its high calcium content. I’m not so concerned about the calcium content but rather the wonderful taste and texture, both of which are so decadent you could be forgiven for thinking it’s illegal.
That’s where the wandering Merchant Gourmet come in, official soft sweet milk smugglers, we’ve been out and found it for your enjoyment. Legend has it that Dulce de Leche came about by mistake, lets face it, many of the best things do, or so my parents keep telling me.
In the early 1800’s an Argentinian dictator General Rosa, began cavorting with his enemies who finished an evening’s festivities in his tent. Rosa’s old servant lady had been stirring her lechada (boiled milk and sugar) in the kitchen and got such a shock to see the enemy that she lifted her skirts and high-tailed home.
Meanwhile, the lechada cooked on and an hour or so later it had become thick and golden brown. The general awoke and not finding his servant anywhere went to the pot. Armed with a baguette, a sore head and an appetite he finished the whole lot. The general was not without a little commercial nous and knowing he was onto a good thing, he sent his horseman to find the servant lady who was quivering under a haystack, found out what had happened and dulce de leche was born.
Sounds a little far fetched? Well, my history is a little shaky, but it was either as above or just a good way of keeping milk in the summer before the days of fridges. On to how it’s used, I know, I know, you just want to sit there, in your pyjamas, in front of the telly and scoop it up with a spoon, so do I, but there are other possibilities. We love to simplify life and boy is this a product that does just that!
Let’s face it, sometimes the original ideas are the best. Grab a tub of the best vanilla ice cream, or if you’re a real keen vanilla bean make some yourself. Chill a few bowls, scoop the ice cream into them and pour the dulce de leche over the top. If you enjoy the sensual side of cooking you’ll delight in just watching it come over the top of the jar in unctuous ribbons as it patterns your ice cream.
At least a few times a week, be done with all of the birdseed or muesli and the like that you may have for breakfast and treat yourself. Spread some thickly over fresh croissants or brioche, I love a layer of thick cream cheese underneath. Good coffee and the sports and gossip pages make this recipe for a wonderful morning complete. Spouses are optional.
For the glamour desserts dulce de leche is there, holding its head up high no matter how exalted the company. Try layering it mille feuille style with sticky caramelised bananas deglazed with rum, topping it with crisp filo pastry. Have a go at mango tarts with dulce de leche and passion fruit, the combination of freshness, sweet and tart is lovely. How long since you’ve had a banana split (stop laughing) think about it, this time using the chocolate version of dulce de leche - delicious.
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